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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.